
This documentary brought back many fond memories, and some not so fond, of my childhood.
The author, a small league maple syrup producer from Toronto and Madoc, Ontario chronicles the fraught history of producing maple syrup and maple sugar from the earliest records of First Nations using entirely wooden tools to the modern huge industry using suction lines and reverse osmosis. Along the way there have been countless legal and ethical battles, mostly in Quebec, which produces more of the syrup than anywhere else, much of it from tapping trees on Crown Land and on ZECs (Zone Exploitation Contrôle) leased from the Quebec government. The industry in Quebec is mired in controversy with large cartels dictating prices and monitoring operations. One sophisticated heist in 2012 of over half a million gallons of syrup from the strategic reserve was the largest theft in Canadian history.
With a short season of highly variable suitable weather of at most 2 months, the undertaking is at best a risky investment. When the sap is running, it can also be labor intensive with 24/6 work. (On Sundays, even if the sap spilled over the full buckets, many producers refused to work, my father included.
My experience as a preteen was slogging in deep snow to drain buckets into pails and take the sap to a 500 gallon tank on a horse-drawn sleigh to be delivered to a bigger tank by the sugar shack containing the Grimm and Sons Co. long evaporator, fuelled by wood. My father tapped about 800 trees. On a good year that produced about 200 gallons of syrup from 40 times as much sap. He sold it to various town folk. The visits to the sugar shack by pupils from the nearby one room schoolhouse was an annual highlight. In my teens, I helped construct a new sugar shack on the edge of the forest, no longer used.
There is now constant conflict with the logging industry, but my father, with an innate sense of sustainability, only cut down old unproductive trees and used the wood to heat the evaporator, the house, and some nearby one-room schoolhouses.
There is a 1906 law prohibiting mixing of maple syrup with cane sugar, but last week we bought some “maple flavoured” syrup at the Camp Voyager shop.
There are some limitations to this documentary. Lanark county is described as east of Ottawa in one place and (correctly) as west of it in another. Nowhere is there discussion of what chemical compounds in the syrup give it the distinctive aroma, taste and colour, getting darker later in the season. 0ver 98 % of the solid material is sucrose, just like cane sugar, but one would think that in the age of mass spectroscopy, the other compounds should have been identified by now. There is no discussion of taps per tree, as some overzealous producers use several on large trees, perhaps compromising their health and longevity.
Overall, a very informative book.
4.5/5
Thanks, Vera
A painting of my father with his dog Ginger, gathering sap near the sugar shack.



















